FIXING DETAILS
Veneer mouldings are intended to be fitted to a structure after completion of the
brickwork, and are not "built in". The principle advantages of this are:
Raw brickwork is seldom sufficiently "true" to receive the precast directly, and although not
a requirement, it is preferable to plaster the wall before fixing a veneer. Plastering after the
installation does have the advantage that te precast veneer is gripped by the plaster.
Plastering after has the disadvantage of reducing some of the thickness of the item.
When fixing window or door lintel veneers (ie single piece veneers), mark the level of
the bottom edge of the moulding on the wall and rule (or chalk) that horizontal line. Fit two
rods into the wall, immediately below the line, near to the ends of the moulding - these are
to support the precast during installation. Find the middle of the opening and mark it on
the wall. Mark the middle of the precast. Place the moulding on the wall supported by the
two rods, align the marks, and check that there are no obstructions and that the holes
provided are in suitable positions. Remove the unit from the wall. If necessary, re-drill the
fixing holes on a level surface and counter sink the holes if "nail plugs" are to be used.
Apply an adhesive mortar to the back face, before replacing in position again. Run an
8mm drill through the holes in the unit as supplied, and continue into the wall to a depth
suitable for the fixer intended. Drive in the "nail plugs" but don't seat until satisfied that the
moulding is level. If not level, insert a wedge between the rods and the precast, until level.
Seat the nail plugs and cover over the heads with a premixed filler, or use the excess of
the adhesive mortar.
Seal all around the edge using the mortar and clean up. Do not remove the supporting
rods until the following day.
When a moulding is supplied in more than one length, such as for wide openings, a
timber straight edge of several metres is first fixed to the wall with three or more rods. One
or both units will require fine adjustment in order to align the profile of the moulding at the
joint. This may necessitate lifting, by means of a strip of cardboard between the straight
edge and the moulding, or even wedging out from the wall by means of a shim at the back.
When installing long runs, set out between two corners and chalk the horizontal line of
the base of the moulding. Fix a timber straight edge up to the line and always commence
at a corner. Finish off between two lengths of concrete by caulking with the mortar
mentioned and then later seal with a premixed filler. This joint will require sanding down
when dry.
Adhesive mortar may be a regular building mortar with bonding liquid added, or a dry
powder tile adhesive mixed shortly before required.
Fixers should be long enough to support the wight of the moulding being installed - a
minimum of 50mm into the wall. In coastal areas use stainless-steel or galvanised fixers.
DISCLAIMER
This information is intended as a guide to the installation of precast concrete veneer
mouldings. Old World Concretes (Pty) Ltd can in no way be held responsible for any
installation not undertaken by its official representatives.